Exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina: A Journey Through Travel, Culture, and Food.png)
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country where East meets West, a place where centuries-old traditions blend with breathtaking landscapes, fascinating history, and a culinary tradition that draws from both Ottoman and Central European influences. Nestled in the heart of the Balkans, Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) is often overlooked by travelers, but those who venture here are rewarded with picturesque medieval towns, stunning mountain scenery, and unforgettable food experiences.
From its vibrant capital of Sarajevo to the historic city of Mostar and its lesser-known rural gems, Bosnia and Herzegovina offers a rich cultural and culinary tapestry. Traveling and eating in Bosnia and Herzegovina means immersing yourself in the warmth and hospitality of its people while savoring mouth-watering dishes rooted in tradition. Let’s explore the best places to visit and the incredible foods you need to try during your journey through this enchanting country.
1. Sarajevo: The Cultural Crossroads
Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a place where cultures collide. Known as the “Jerusalem of Europe,” Sarajevo is home to mosques, churches, and synagogues all standing within walking distance of one another, a testament to the city's long history of religious and cultural diversity.
Exploring the Old Town (Baščaršija)
Start your visit in the heart of Sarajevo’s Old Town, Baščaršija, a bustling bazaar where you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time. This vibrant area is filled with narrow cobblestone streets, Ottoman-era buildings, and traditional artisans selling handmade crafts, copperware, and rugs. Be sure to visit the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, one of the most important Islamic structures in the Balkans, and the nearby Sebilj Fountain, an iconic wooden structure where legend says that anyone who drinks from it will return to Sarajevo.
As you explore, you’ll quickly notice the incredible smells wafting from the many food stalls and restaurants lining the streets. For breakfast or a quick snack, try burek, a savory pastry filled with meat, cheese, or spinach, and often served with a side of yogurt. This flaky, satisfying treat is a staple of Bosnian cuisine, and you’ll find it in nearly every corner of the city.
A Taste of Ottoman Influence: Bosnian Coffee
No trip to Sarajevo would be complete without experiencing Bosnian coffee. Served in a small copper džezva (coffee pot) with a sugar cube and a piece of Turkish delight on the side, this strong, unfiltered coffee is more than just a beverage—it’s a social ritual. Take your time as you sip your coffee at one of the many cafes in Baščaršija, and watch the world go by, just as locals have been doing for centuries.
For lunch, stop at a traditional Bosnian ćevabdžinica (a restaurant specializing in ćevapi). Ćevapi are small grilled minced meat sausages typically served with flatbread (somun), raw onions, and kajmak, a creamy dairy spread. This dish, originally influenced by the Ottomans, has become one of the most beloved meals in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it’s the perfect introduction to Bosnian street food.
The Latin Bridge and Sarajevo’s Tumultuous History
While Sarajevo is filled with delicious food, it’s also a city steeped in history. A short walk from Baščaršija will take you to the Latin Bridge, where Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated in 1914, sparking the events that led to World War I. Sarajevo’s more recent history is also on display at the War Childhood Museum and the Tunnel of Hope, which tell the story of the city’s resilience during the Bosnian War in the 1990s.
2. Mostar: A City of History and Beauty
Mostar is perhaps the most iconic destination in Bosnia and Herzegovina, known for its beautiful Stari Most (Old Bridge), which arches gracefully over the Neretva River. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a symbol of both the city and the country, representing the bridge between different cultures and religions.
Stari Most and the Old Bazaar
The Old Bridge was originally built by the Ottomans in the 16th century, and while it was tragically destroyed during the Bosnian War, it was painstakingly reconstructed and reopened in 2004. Today, the bridge draws visitors from around the world who come to watch the famous Mostar bridge divers leap from its 24-meter height into the river below.
After admiring the bridge, take a stroll through Mostar’s Old Bazaar, where you’ll find shops selling local handicrafts, souvenirs, and traditional Bosnian coffee sets. The bazaar is a great place to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy a leisurely meal at one of the many riverside restaurants.
Traditional Bosnian Cuisine in Mostar
When it comes to food, Mostar offers many of the same traditional Bosnian dishes you’ll find in Sarajevo, but with a slightly different regional twist. One must-try dish in Mostar is sogan-dolma, a Bosnian specialty consisting of onions stuffed with minced meat and rice, then cooked in a flavorful broth. Another popular dish is begova čorba, a rich chicken and vegetable soup, often served as an appetizer.
For dessert, treat yourself to tufahija, a baked apple stuffed with walnuts and sugar, served in a sweet syrup. This Ottoman-influenced dessert is a perfect way to end a meal while enjoying the views of the Old Bridge and the surrounding mountains.
3. Herzegovina: Nature, Wine, and Waterfalls
While Sarajevo and Mostar are the main draws for travelers, the Herzegovina region offers plenty of natural beauty, with lush vineyards, historic towns, and stunning waterfalls.
Kravice Waterfalls: A Natural Paradise
One of the highlights of the Herzegovina region is the Kravice Waterfalls, located about an hour’s drive from Mostar. These stunning cascades, surrounded by lush greenery, form a natural amphitheater of waterfalls that flow into a crystal-clear pool below. It’s the perfect spot for a refreshing swim, a picnic, or just relaxing in the serene surroundings.
For lunch, head to a nearby restaurant and try hercegovačka peka, a traditional dish where meat (usually lamb or veal) and vegetables are slow-cooked under a bell-shaped lid covered with hot coals. This method of cooking gives the food a rich, smoky flavor, and it’s often served with fresh bread and salad.
Wine Tasting in Herzegovina
The Herzegovina region is also known for its wine production, particularly the Blatina and Žilavka grape varieties, which thrive in the region’s warm Mediterranean climate. Take a tour of one of the local wineries, where you can sample these unique wines while learning about the centuries-old winemaking traditions of the region.
Pair your wine tasting with some pršut (cured ham) and sir iz mijeha (a traditional sheep’s cheese aged in a sheepskin sack), which are often served as appetizers at wine tastings. These local delicacies are the perfect complement to the rich flavors of Herzegovina’s wines.
4. The Bosnian Countryside: Traditional Villages and Rural Cuisine
For a more off-the-beaten-path experience, venture into the Bosnian countryside, where you’ll find charming villages, ancient monasteries, and delicious home-cooked meals.
Travnik: A Town of Ottoman Legacy
The town of Travnik, located in central Bosnia, is known for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture and historical significance. Travnik was once the residence of Ottoman viziers, and today, you can still see the influence of this period in its mosques, clock tower, and fortress.
One of the culinary highlights of Travnik is Travnička ćevapi, a local variation of the beloved Bosnian dish. The ćevapi here are known for their smaller size and are typically served with a soft, pillowy somun bread. Don’t forget to pair it with kajmak, a local cheese that’s often described as a cross between butter and cream cheese.
Travnik is also famous for its Travnička pastrmka (trout), which is farmed in the nearby Plava Voda stream. This fresh, grilled trout is typically served with potatoes, lemon, and a side salad, making it a healthy and delicious option for lunch or dinner.
Lukomir: The Last Traditional Bosnian Village
If you’re looking to experience a more rural and traditional side of Bosnia, a visit to Lukomir is a must. Located on the slopes of Bjelašnica Mountain, Lukomir is the highest and most isolated village in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The village has preserved its centuries-old way of life, with stone houses topped with wooden roofs and a population that still engages in traditional farming and shepherding.
In Lukomir, you’ll have the chance to taste authentic Bosnian rural cuisine, such as klepe (Bosnian dumplings), pita (a type of pie filled with meat, potatoes, or cheese), and uštipci (fried dough, often served with cheese or honey). These simple, hearty dishes are made with locally sourced ingredients, offering a true taste of Bosnia’s rural traditions.
5. Bosnian Desserts: Sweet Endings
Bosnia and Herzegovina is home to a variety of delicious desserts, many of which reflect the country’s Ottoman heritage. One of the most popular sweets is baklava, a rich pastry made of layers of filo dough, chopped nuts, and honey or syrup. You’ll find baklava in nearly every café and restaurant, often served with a cup of strong Bosnian coffee.
Another must-try dessert is hurmašica, a syrup-soaked cookie that’s flavored with lemon and sometimes filled with walnuts. It’s a simple but incredibly satisfying treat, especially when enjoyed after a long day of sightseeing.
For something a little lighter, try sutlijaš, a creamy rice pudding flavored with cinnamon and vanilla. This comforting dessert is popular throughout the Balkans and is often served cold, making it a refreshing option in the summer months.
Practical Tips for Traveling in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Currency: The official currency is the Bosnian Convertible Mark (BAM), though euros are sometimes accepted in tourist areas. It’s a good idea to carry cash, especially in smaller towns or rural areas.Language: The official languages are Bosnian, Croatian, and Serbian, but English is widely spoken in cities and tourist areas.
Transportation: Bosnia and Herzegovina has an extensive bus network, making it easy to travel between cities. Renting a car is recommended if you plan to explore rural areas or natural attractions like the Kravice Waterfalls.
Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina is during the spring and summer (May to September) when the weather is mild and outdoor activities are in full swing. Winter is also a great time to visit if you’re interested in skiing or snowboarding in the mountains.
Conclusion: A Journey to Remember
Traveling and eating in Bosnia and Herzegovina is an experience unlike any other. Whether you’re wandering the historic streets of Sarajevo, marveling at the beauty of Mostar’s Old Bridge, or enjoying a home-cooked meal in a rural village, this country offers a rich cultural and culinary journey that’s sure to leave a lasting impression.
Bosnia and Herzegovina’s food reflects its diverse history, with influences from the Ottoman Empire, Austria-Hungary, and the Balkans all blending together to create a unique and flavorful cuisine. From savory dishes like ćevapi and sogan-dolma to sweet treats like baklava and tufahija, every meal in Bosnia and Herzegovina tells a story.
So pack your bags, come hungry, and get ready to explore a country that offers not only stunning landscapes and rich history but also some of the most delicious food in the Balkans.